Elevation: 8,848 m | First ascent: 1953 | Location: Nepal
Articolul Mount Ararat 5137m apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Ararat Expedition is an incredible journey to this impressive freestanding stratovolcano where, according to biblical folklore, Noah’s Ark landed after surviving the great flood. Led by our Extreme Expeditions guides in close collaboration with our local experts, this safety-driven trekking adventure is curated to blend an epic summit experience above 5000 meters with local culture, comfortable accommodation, and great food!
Articolul Mount Ararat 5137m apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Articolul Elbrus 5.642m Winter Expedition apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Mt. Elbrus is a stunning volcanic peak located in the Caucasus Mountains of Russia and at 5.642m (18,510ft) it is Europe’s, as well as Russia’s, highest peak.
Situated between the Black Sea to the west and the Caspian Sea to the east, Mt. Elbrus rises majestically from the high green plains that stretch northward into the heartland of Russia. Just to the south of the peak lies the main body of the Caucasus Mountains, a range that rivals the Alps with its stark rugged beauty. Our adventures begin several thousand miles to the north of Mt. Elbrus in Moscow – the political, economic, and cultural heart of Russia. We walk across the cobblestones of Red Square, beneath the shadows of St. Basil’s onion-shaped domes, and cross through the thick walls of the Kremlin to visit the seat of Russian power.
We then fly south to the town of Mineralnye Vody, known for its abundant mineral springs. A three-hour drive brings us to the Baksan Valley, sitting at the foot of Mt. Elbrus and surrounded on all sides by the soaring peaks of the Caucasus. After adjusting to the altitude while hiking in the valley, we move to the Pilgrim Hut at 3.835m (12,600ft) on Mt. Elbrus’ flanks. We use the mountain’s rolling glaciers surrounding the hut to review our mountaineering skills and continue our acclimatization in preparation for our summit bid.
Articolul Elbrus 5.642m Winter Expedition apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Articolul Mount Vinson 4,897m Antarctica apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Trip overview
Santiago, Chile – Punta Arenas – Union Glacier –
Vinson Massif Base Camp – Summit – Vinson Massif BC –
Union Glacier – Punta Arenas
An expedition to Vinson Peak is often called the “Key to the 7 Summits”. The mountain itself does not present serious technical problems, but it is very difficult to even reach it. Mount Vinson is very remote and therefore any expedition is very expensive. The rewards is great: climbing the highest summit of Antarctica is an incredible experience in itself and for many the final step to reaching their 7 summits goal.
A trip to Vinson Massif is exceptionally interesting, beautiful and prestigious. So far very few people have done it and for most, it is the highlight of their “7 summits quest”.
Our program starts in Punta Arenas (Chile). From there, a special Ilyushin-76 aircraft takes us to the Union Glacier camp in Antarctica and lands on the ice (with wheels).
From the Union Glacier camp, a small ski-equipped plane brings us to Vinson Massif Base Camp (BC), where we pitch our tents. From here we start the ascent of Mount Vinson, using another 2 intermediate camps before attempting to reach the summit of Mount Vinson, the highest point of Antarctica.
Antarctica is an extremely cold place, even in summer, but as compensation, we will have sunlight all day and night, so 24-hours daylight! You will not need head torches and can save on batteries.
We recommend that you arrive in Punta Arenas (Chile) at least 3 days before the official start of the expedition, so you will be ready for a quick departure to Antarctica. Due to the very unstable weather in the area (we fly over the infamous Drake Passage), our flights cannot be definitely planned in advance; the date and flight time is determined by the weather. Sometimes we leave early, but often there are delays as well. The waiting should not be too long (1-3 days), but rare delays of 10 days have been recorded.
Description of the region:
The Vinson Massif is a part of the Sentinel Range (Ellsworth Mountains), lying in the west of Antarctica and overlooking the Ronne Ice Shelf. Discovered in 1935 by the American explorer Lincoln Ellsworth, it is the highest massif on the continent and the highest peak of Antarctica is Mount Vinson – 16,066 ft or 4,897 m.
Note that the itinerary below is just a guideline. We will adapt it as needed depending on weather conditions, acclimatisation of the team members etc. The flights could be combined on the same day if needed, more time could be spent in some camps or alternatively, the expedition can be much shorter if all goes well and you could be back in Chile ahead of schedule.
Articolul Mount Vinson 4,897m Antarctica apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Articolul Expedition on Aconcagua 6,962m apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>We invite you to participate in an extraordinary adventure on the highest peak in the Americas and the Southern Hemisphere, along with our Romanian guides.
Aconcagua (originally Cerro Aconcagua) is part of the Cordilleri Andes and is bordered by Valle de las Vacas valleys to the north and east and Valle de los Horcones Lower to the west and south. The mountain is part of the Parque Provincial Park of Aconcagua. It has a number of glaciers, of which the most massive are the Polish Glacier and the English Glacier. River Aconcagua springs from the southern slope and flows westward, spilling into the Pacific Ocean 20 km north of Valparaíso, Chile.
Articolul Expedition on Aconcagua 6,962m apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Articolul Mount Everest 8,848m South apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Elevation: 8,848 m | First ascent: 1953 | Location: Nepal
Season: SPRING | Group size: 2-10 person
When most people think of Nepal they think of Mt. Everest, the tallest mountain in the world at 8,848M (29,029ft). Reaching the summit of Everest is the Holy Grail for most mountaineers and is considered a lifetime achievement. There are two standard approaches to climbing Everest, one from the north via Tibet and one from the south via the Khumbu Icefall. These are two totally different experiences, with the North ridge being windy and desolate and the south side being a scenic and magical place including the Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse face. The Sagarmatha, “Forehead of the Sky” in Nepali, is known as Mt. Everest around the world.
The Everest expedition experience is similar to an extended peak climbing trip, but at an elevation above 8,000 meters. It is not technical peak climbing, but more similar to an extended trekking experience in Nepal. Climbing Everest is an enormously physical experience, requiring that you push your body to the extreme, living in a unnatural place, beyond the normal boundary of its capabilities and or a short time into the death zone. Oxygen deprivation is extreme forcing the body to slowly begin to breakdown both physically and mentally. There is however an enormous satisfaction at the end of this difficult process providing each climber with an enormous sense of achievement that lasts forever.
Everest expedition is a multifaceted experience with phase one bring the Everest Base Camp trek through Khumbu valley with it colorful villages full of art and tradition and friendly Sherpa culture. Following the trek to Everest Base camp, there is the Everest Base Camp experience itself, which provides its own challenges of living for 4 weeks in the surroundings of the Khumbu glacier. Finally there is the acclimatization period of climbing to camp 1, 2, and 3 and eventually to camp 4 at the south col and hopefully success on the summit.
Trekking back to Lukla after the climb along the Everest Base camp trek in reverse is a enormous sense of achievement for those reaching the summit and moreover a sense of stepping outside your comfort zone for being daring enough to challenge the mountain.
The Everest expedition is a serious logistic exercise with lots of food, supplies and equipment being hauled up along the Everest Base Camp trek by armies of porters and Sherpa guides carrying ropes, ladders and equipment to high camps for the clients patiently waiting in the Base Camp and setting up miles of fixed lines and finding path for their clients.
The Everest expedition along the south face is calling the South East Ridge which is known as the Normal Everest climbing route. As per our company record the summit Co-ordinates Latitude is 27°59’17” N and Longitude is 86°55’31” E. The summit program will be dependent upon weather and snow conditions, but in general will be a single push on 7 consecutive days from Base Camp as follows: Base Camp – camp one Camp 1 (6065m): camp one – Camp 2 Camp 2 6400M: Camp 2 – Camp 3Camp 3 (7100m): Camp 3 – Camp 4 Camp 4 (7920m) (South Col, 7,900m):Camp 4 – Summit(8848M)– Camp 4: Camp 4 – Camp 2: Camp 2 – Base Camp.
Mt. Everest was first summated by Sherpa Tenzing Norgay and New Zealand climbers Mr. Edmond Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay with a British expedition in 1953 were used the South Col route first time to summit Mount Everest. At that time the route had only been attempted twice by Swiss teams in the spring and autumn of 1952. They reached 8500m well above the South Col. Of note; Norway was with the Swiss thus giving him the experience he used on the British expedition. The Swiss returned in 1956 to make the second summit of Everest.
Around 2000 AD, when expedition operators started operating on Everest from north side, there were very few teams and very little infrastructure available. Over the years expedition operators have continuously been improving the routes and new methods and standards have lead to a high level of success and safety of our climbers. Our partners has helped with these methods on the South Side and have helped build the standard level of service and safety on Everest. We are concerned by the unstable nature of the Khumbu Icefall and subsequently have created a system by which clients and our team move through the Khumbu ice fall much less than in the past. This is the reason we acclimatize on nearby peaks including Island Peak and or Lobuche Peak to help avoid rotations on Mt. Everest.
South Side Climbing Routes:
The south route is technically a trekking route with a little objective danger once you move past the Khumbu icefall apart from a few crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, a couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and some rock sections protected with fixed lines. There is an obvious danger of high altitude illness and the unpredictable mountain weather.
The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with objective dangers. This is the most dangerous part of the climb, but we attempt to alleviate the danger installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs and ice walls for efficient and easier climbing. These arrangements make climbing through the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially in the early morning when the ice structure is more stable. The Khumbu ice fall is much more dangerous in the afternoon due to the sun and warming of the ice.
Everest base camp located on a moving glacier at 5,200 meters from sea level where you will spend up to 45 days. Conditions in base camp will remain consistent during the climbing period and will consist of shifting and moving tents and platforms as the ice moves and melts. The area is harsh, but beautiful surrounded by Pumori, Lola, Nuptse, Nutse and the Khumbu Icefall with warm mornings and occasional afternoon snow squalls. With so many expedition teams at BC it looks and feels like a small village in the Himalaya.
Reaching C1 is the most technical part of a south side climb since it crosses the Khumbu Icefall. The Icefall is 2,000′ feet of moving ice with deep crevasses, towering ice sera’s and avalanches off Everest’s west shoulder. During the climbing period we attempt to spend only 2 nights at Camp I for acclimation. Once you have proper acclimation our plans calls for us to move up and down directly from camp II for safely.
Camp 2 is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views of Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period here with tents for individual climbers along with kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is the main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climbing and the final summit attempt. This is the camp, where you are spending the most time after base camp.
Climbing the Lhotse Face to C3 is often difficult since almost all climbers are feeling the effects of high altitude and are not yet using supplemental oxygen. The Lhotse Face is steep and the ice is hard, but the route is fixed with rope and the angles can range from 30 to 45 degrees. It is a long climb to C3, but is required for acclimatization prior to a summit bid. You will spend 2 nights at camp three for acclimatization and the summit push.
Welcome to the moon. This is a flat area covered with loose rock and surrounded by Everest to the north and Lhotse on the south. Located at the South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by a majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: the Yellow Band an inter-layer of marble, phyllite and semi schist rock and the Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rock. Both of these areas are set-up with fixed ropes.
The last section from the south Col to the summit takes 09-13 hours to navigate. There is the Balcony, the Hillary Step, and the south summit before reaching the central summit. The route to the true summit is a moderate snow slope and while tired, adrenaline keeps most climbers moving at this point.
✓ Is the tallest mountain in the world.
✓ It is the easiest route to Everest summit.
✓ Because is there.
Articolul Mount Everest 8,848m South apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Articolul Manaslu 8.163m Expedition, Nepal apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Elevation: 8,163 m | First ascent: 1955 | Province: Himalaya, Nepal
Season: AUTUMN | Group size: Minimum 2 pax
The Mount Manaslu Expedition 8,163m (26,763ft) is usually a first choice for adventures climbers looking to climb an 8000m peak. The route was opened by Japanese climbers Mr. Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu on May 9, 1956. Attention was being put on Manaslu since 1950 when Mr. Harold William Tilman made a reconnaissance expedition of the peak. He stated that there is a potential route of ascent from the north-east.
Manaslu Peak also known as “Kutang” it is the eighth highest peak in the world. It in the central-western part of Nepal. The exact coordinates are: Latitude 28°33’01”N, Longitude 84°33’42”E. Its name, which means „mountain of the spirit”, comes from the Sanskrit word manasa, meaning „intellect” or „soul”. The Manaslu Expedition can be compared to Mt. Cho Oyu and Mt. Shishapangma expeditions. These 3 8000m peaks are considered to be the “easiest” out of the 14 8000m peaks in the world. We here back form a lot of experienced mountaineers that Mt. Manaslu is the best 8000m peak to climb to prepare for a Mt. Everest ascent.
It is recommended that you climb Cho Oyu and Shishapangma for training before attempting Mt. Manaslu. The approache to Manaslu is stunning, the long ridges and wide glacier valleys make for a feasible approach from all directions. The peak towers steeply above the surrounding landscape. Normally, most of the climbers use the route of Northeast ridge to ascend to the summit, this is the standard fixed route. There are 6 different climbing routes on Mt. Manaslu. The South face is the most challenging. The standard route follows a relatively straightforward line to the summit, which has few technical sections. Normally, four camps are set up after Advanced Base Camp.However some of the strong climbers do a summit push from camp three. From the Base Camp, climbers has to bear a few stretches of steep climbing and crevasses from Camp I to Camp II, slippery snow climbing is required from Camp II to Camp III and possibility of facing avalanches from Camp III to Camp IV during the attempts. After the big avalanche in the spring of 2013, there are 3 to 4 sections in the icefall’s where there are 3-5 meters long latter’s in place.
Manaslu base camp is located on a rocky moraine with amazing views of the Himalaya. Extreme Expeditions base camp will be setup for almost 35 days. On an 8000m expedition climbers spend most of their time at base camp, so naturally on any long expedition, base camp becomes a home away from home. We establish our camp at a walking distance between meeting points with different group and strategic viewing positions of the Manaslu massif. We will provide a personal tent which becomes your private retreat, a dining tent that is the common area, a shower tent and toilet tent. When you arrive at the base camp it will already be fully established and hot beverages and snacks will be available immediately. Waiting for you there will be your base camp staff and high altitude climbing Sherpa. Prior to your climbing period you will have a Puja ceremony at the base camp for good luck. This is one Nepalese tradition not to miss; it represents safe climbing passage for everyone involved in the expedition.
Once you have reviewed basic and advanced training by your climbing Sherpa guide, you will be ready for your attempt to climb to camp 1 which is at a height of 18,700ft/5800m. In this section of the climb you will encounter mixed terrain including a few crevasses and short ice sections on the first section of glacier. Prior to the first section of glacier you will encounter grassy slopes, rock slabs and moraine. For average climbers it takes about 4 hours. The first section of climbing on the moraine takes about an hour, then you reach the crampon point at the mouth of the glacier, the glacier portion takes about 3 hours. Camp one is divided into two sections, lower camp 1 and upper camp 1, the distance between the two is 100m/328ft.
The climbing from camp 1 to camp 2 is the most technical section on Mt. Manaslu. During this section you encounter the heart of the icefall. The first section is just slogging over snow for about an hour, and then you encounter several steep section of ice, 2 ladder crossings and steep snow climbing. Expect that this section will take you about 5 hours. Expect that you will encounter several steep sections of ice that are 100m at a slope of 65º. For most people this is the crux of the route. Camp 2 is situated above the icefall on a snowy terrace.
Camp two to camp three is the shortest distance and will be your shortest climbing day. It does not require any ladder crossings, but there are a few crevasses that are roughly a half meter that need to be jumped. The main ropes are fixed by climbing Sherpa’s team. This section for most climbers feels easier, but still it is not to be taken lightly, the climbing is still on sustained slopes and there is exposure to cold and wind. Although in spring there has been reports of direct sun hitting this section making it feel very warm
Climbing from camp 3 to camp 4 feels like a long day, the distance of short nut now you are nearing the death zone. As all climbers as aware the oxygen levels are very low at this altitude so it is expected that any effort no matter how minimum or trivial will feel arduous. In this section you have to climb for 3-4 hours on steep snow that is on a 50-55º slope. This section is dangerous because the snow slope is covering a layer of ice which make ethos section avalanche prone. Comparing with other sections of the route, this portion is extremely physical with sustained steep snow sections at extreme altitude in avalanche terrain.
Summit day, the main goal during the climbing period. Most climbers begin their summit bid at 1:00 am. if all goes well they reach the summit between 7-10 am. Below the main summit is a false summit, the main summit is reached via an exposed ridge. It takes about 4 hours to return to Camp 4 from the summit and another 2 hours to get to camp three for overnight stay. The climbing is not technical in the early part as you ascend through several basins with short snow headwalls. The climb passes the false summit and finishes on an exposed ridge to the true summit for a spectacular view of the mighty Himalaya. Our Sherpa guides will fix ropes break trail and make every effort to assist the group to reach the summit of the 8th highest mountain in the world.
Articolul Manaslu 8.163m Expedition, Nepal apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Articolul Climb Ama Dablam 6,812m apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
]]>Considered by many to be the most beautiful mountain in the world, Ama Dablam is located almost due south of Mt. Everest and Mt. Lhotse in the Khumbu region.
The Ama Dablam Expedition is a true climb that even accomplished mountaineers are proud and especially fond of. It is a steep pyramid of ice with vertical walls and sharp, exposed ridges and traverses all while offering incredible views of the mountains that Ama Dablam is at the centre of.
Mount Ama Dablam forms a lasting impression on many trekkers in Nepal, and the same is true of those climbing Ama Dablam as it is perhaps the most stunning mountain along the popular trekking route to Everest Base Camp constantly changing in view, and always magnificent.
Articolul Climb Ama Dablam 6,812m apare prima dată în Extreme Expeditions.
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